Coastal Oregon

15^th May

It was really hot in the night at Eugene. Before we left we registered “Ernie” with Florida Vehicle Registration for 2015. We used 25 miles of the I-5 before heading towards the coast following the Umpqua River where it joins the coast at Reedsport. Slightly south we found a State Park at the Umpqua Lighthouse. We camped by a small lake and walked the short distance around the lake to the Umpqua lighthouse. We joined a tour of the lighthouse by a ranger, built in 1894, which is still used today. It was fascinating. We even managed to poke our heads up into the revolving Fresnel lens system. It was of brick construction with the original spiral internal staircase.

16^th May

Back to Reedsport to the information centre where we learned about the Oregon National Dunes. This is a strip of coastline about 40 miles long and 1 mile wide dominated by huge sand dunes. Unfortunately they are a recreational area which means that everyone drives their dune buggies over them. Dune buggies (ATVs in NZ or OHVs in the USA) are noisy vehicles which roar over these beautiful dunes. (only in the USA!!!). We found an area where we could safely walk over the dunes to the beach without being run over by them.  We camped in a forest park in a lovely sunny camp situated on a lagoon. There was a short walk around the lagoon which we enjoyed before soaking up the sun. Unfortunately the lagoon also meant that there were a lot of annoying midges which in the evening drove us inside.

17^th May

We had a couple of showers of rain in the night. We drove to Florence, a beautiful seaside port on a river. There were hundreds of Harley Davison motor bikes in town as there was a rally this weekend. What a site!! I have never seen so many “Hogs” in one place. We continued on up the coast on the ‘101’ with a coastline like northern California to our next camp at another state park near Waldport.

 We were camped on a beautiful sandy beach and, as it was sunny and no wind, we sat on the beach for 3 hours enjoying the sunshine and the sights.

18^th May

It rained again in the night. We continued on the ‘101’ north. There are a number of small fishing/tourist ports along this coast. Each port has a huge bridge crossing the harbour entrance. We stopped at Newport and

walked the historic waterfront, a mixture of fishing industry and tourist shops. Our next stop was at the Yaquina Bay lighthouse, one of the oldest lighthouses in Oregon. We left the ‘101’ and followed the “Three Capes Scenic Loop” to a State Park at Cape Lookout. It has rained off and on all day. We walked to the beach between showers.

19^th May

It rained very heavily in the night but dawned clear and sunny. We had to drive back 3 miles to the start of the track to the end of Cape Lookout. It was a 2.5 mile walk to the view point at the end of the cape. We had great views thru the forest of the coast line north and south. The last part of the walk was along the cliff tops with huge drops to the sea below. This is another area where the Grey whales can be seen migrating north. Not for us unfortunately. On our return to “Ernie” it started to rain but we were mostly protected by the forest canopy. Our lunch stop was at a great lookout above the camp where we were last night and we decided to head further north for the night.

A bit more on the “Three Capes Scenic Loop” before rejoining the 101. The road followed around some large inlets with many lovely small coastal towns. The State Park at Nehalem was huge with 265 electric sites with a short walk to a great beach. It even has an area for horse camping complete with corals for your horse. In the evening we returned to the beach and watched the sunset.

 20^th May

Before leaving this camp we rode our bikes along a cycle path around a small airport. Yes there is even an airport camp for those who fly in. Another short drive along the cliffs and then around more inlets to our last camp on the Oregon coast. We stopped at Cannon Beach where the famous Haystack Rock is. This is reportedly the most photographed thing in Oregon. Unfortunately in the grey gloom it was not at its best. We are now as far north as you can go in another huge State Park at Fort Stevens at the mouth of the Columbia River, the border between

Oregon and Washington. It was a cold overcast day with the wind from the north and we did not see the sun. After lunch we set off on the bikes for a 9 mile ride on cycle paths to Fort Stevens. This fort was built in 1862 for the Civil War but has been use right up until WW11. We had a look in the museum and climbed up along the fortifications where there are still some cannons. Back at “Ernie” and inside as it is really cold!  

21 May

We drove out of Fort Stevens State Park and into Astoria, an old port town on the banks of the Columbia River. After a quick shop we crossed the huge Astoria Bridge and into the state of Washington. The bridge is about 2 miles long - the first bit is high over the water to allow the ships to pass up the river. At a small town over the border we found a visitor’s centre where the helpful staff had all the brochures we needed for camping and touring. The state park at Cape Disappointment was our stop for the night. After lunch the sun came out and we headed off on a trail to a lighthouse.

This was a 4.5 mile lovely walk thru the rainforest. Just before the end of the trail, in an enclosed bushy area we walked straight into the path of a large black bear coming the other way. Apart from the fleeting glimpse we had of a bear cub in the Grand Tetons last year, this was the first bear we had encountered. He was about 1 metre high at the shoulder and would have been at least 2 metres tall if he stood up. He was very handsome with a black shiny coat and a ginger face, with a long nose. We followed the approved procedure and yelled and clapped our hands. Perhaps he had not heard of this method of making a bear retreat because he put his head on one side and kept coming. The worse thing you can do is turn and run. We advanced with more yelling and waving of arms and he eventually turned and disappeared around a corner. We continued on and were surprised that he was still just around the corner and waiting for us. It appeared that he was more curious than aggressive so we

backed him off and he eventually left the track and into the bushes. We yelled as we passed where he disappeared and continued on to the lighthouse. The views from the lighthouse were spectacular but the bear had been the highlight of our walk. We had to return down the same track with much loud talking as we went passed bear alley.

22 May

A beautiful morning. Over breakfast we decided to change our plans for the day and head to Mount St Helens. We had intended to see this volcano later in our trip but it would have meant a long back-track where as doing it now cut that out. The first part of the drive was passed the beautiful tree lined inlets creating Cape Disappointment before we were back on the north bank of the Columbia River. A short drive on the “I-5”

before turning inland on the 52 mile scenic highway up to Mount St Helens. This a beautiful road sweeping up the valley with tantalising glimpses of the mountain. We stopped at one of the visitors centres where we had lunch with a view of the mountain before heading to the end of the road at Johnston Ridge where there is a huge visitor’s centre. Some history of Mount St. Helens -

On 8 May 1980 the largest landslide known to man roared off the mountain. It was about 80% of the mountains volume. It speed down the mountain, over the ridge we were on and the blast wave ahead of the slide knocked the forest down like matchsticks. It also filled a large lake. Now that the mountains centre was exposed a volcanic eruption spewed columns of ash 15,0000ft into the air. These eruptions went on for months causing ash fall out and aircraft disruptions. About 50 people were killed. We learnt some of this from a very good audio/visual. On a

short walk we also spoke to an old guy who had been around before, during, and after the eruptions. He was fascinating and filled us in on some of the more obscure facts and stories. This is a magnificent sight. Unlike most volcanoes you can see straight into the crater. As Val said it made up easily for not seeing Crater Lake in Oregon. There was no camping near Mount St Helens but we found a great little camp about 35 miles down the valley.

23^rd May

We woke to the pitter patter of rain on the roof. A lazy start before setting off to Portland. The first 18 miles were down the valley and then we joined the I-5 for 50 miles. The ‘I‘ roads are a bit scary when it is raining as most cars do 70mph regardless and the visibility is limited. Even the trucks go faster than the 60mph I am comfortable doing. We wanted to shop before our camp and struggled to find  parking at the supermarket. Eventually we accomplished shopping and fuel and found the camp we had booked in Portland. As this weekend is Memorial Weekend (public holiday on Monday) we are staying here for 3 days. Last year we spent Memorial Weekend near Sedona, Arizona, in Oak Canyon. This year there is a huge forest fire burning there. Our RV Park seems very nice and we explored methods of getting into down town Portland which we will use tomorrow. As I write this the sun is shining and we will publish this blog tonight.

Central Oregon

5^th May

We drove the 50 odd miles to the gates of the Lassen Volcanic National Park. There was no one at the gates but they wanted a $10 fee to drive the only 10 mile stretch of the road that was open. We ignored this as we wanted to buy a yearly pass for all the national parks but even the visitor’s centre was closed. The road as far as we could drive was beautiful climbing up the side of the volcano. It started to snow very gently!. Unfortunately the clouds were down and we could not see the peak. A short distance back down the road we stopped for lunch and the cloud slowly lifted to give us a glimpse of the top of Lassen Peak. We drove out of the park and slowly descended thru forests to our overnight stop at McArthur-Burney Falls State Park.

We found a camping spot under the huge redwoods before walking to the falls. It was not the highest we had seen (Sutherland) it was not the biggest we had seen (Niagara) but these were the prettiest. The water going down the falls was from two sources. The Burney Creek was the source of most of the water but about ½ way down the falls lots of water was also coming from underground springs and squirting thru cracks. Very unusual! A trail downstream took us to Lake Britton and then back to the camp. It was a cold night as we were at 4500ft.

6^th May

Before leaving camp we walked back to the falls for a last look. Our drive today was thru a mixture of farm land and forest. We stopped at a small town (Fall River Mill) for a few bits and pieces. These small towns are fascinating and talking to the locals is great. We continued on and ended up on a very rough road into the Lava Beds National Monument. The visitors centre was open so we bought our National Parks pass. There was a nice camp in the trees and after selecting a site we walked back to the visitors centre to watch a short video about the lava beds. This is also a significant site of a battle between the local Indians and the US army. (more about that later).

This area is part of the volcanic system that stretches from Lassen to Crater Lake. In the lava beds the earths crust was soft so the many volcanoes are just like large bubbles. There are also many lava tubes. We walked to the closest tube which had been lit. We will explore some more tomorrow. Another very cold night with the gas furnace (US talk for heater) on before bed.

7^th May

The furnace on again this morning. It was around freezing we think. We drove up to the visitors centre where they lend out torches to explore the lava tubes. We selected a couple of caves,(there are hundreds) and descended down into the earth. We have been in lava tubes in Australia and Idaho, but these were quite different. They are formed by the molten lava forming a crust at the surface and continuing to flow underground. In the others we had seen the roofs had collapsed and but these were in tact and stretched for a very long way. At some points it is hard to credit that they are not man made as the floor, walls and ceiling form a near perfect tunnel until you come to where the ceiling has fallen down and then you have to climb and crawl to the next section. All a bit claustrophobic for me. I have decided, like Line Dancing, Spelunking is not a hobby I will be taking up!! Back to the visitors centre to return our torches and a short drive to a battle ground. The settlers around 1870 were being hassled by the local Indians, the Modac tribe. The army was sent in. 60 Indian braves held off 1500 army troops for 5 months in the lava beds using the unusual rock formations as cover. Eventually the army wiped out the tribe. We learned all this on a short walk around the battle ground.

Back on the road and across the border into Oregon. We have been in California for a very long time, counting last year’s trip inland and all of this year so far. We decided to stay in the city of Klamath Falls (45,000) and found a great cheap site at the County Fairgrounds. We had a great meal at Wubba’s Barbeque. I had a burger and a beer and Val had a chicken salad.

                                                      8^th May

Our plan today was to try and see the Crater Lake National Park. After a stop at the Klamath Falls Information Centre we drove around Lake Klamath and slowly climbed up to the Crater Lake. By the visitor’s centre we were in deep snow either side of the road. We watched a 20 minute video explaining the Crater Lake. Here is that explanation! There are two unique geographical features that have changed this area. 7000 years ago there was a volcano called Mt Mazama 15,000ft odd high. In 24 hours the volcano exploded causing the top 7000ft to collapse forming a huge depression. This depression was filled with snow melt creating a lake. This area has the largest snowfall in the USA. (15 metres/year) Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the USA.

It also has the purest water. There are no streams following in or out of the lake. It is totally dependent on the snow falling mostly on the lake surface. The snow they clear off the National Park roads every year would form a path 1m wide by 150mm deep that would go around the equator. (have not worked out why it would not melt!!) We left the visitors centre and drove up to the rim. Now the bad news starts!

The lake was totally fogged in. We sat and had lunch hoping for a clearance but with no luck. Eventually we accepted the inevitable and drove back down the road to a camp 15 miles away. Our plan was to hopefully drive back up and see the lake tomorrow. Our camp was on the banks of the Rogue River. The rain really set in and we watched the river rise but were quite safe.

9^th May

It was still raining off and on. We drove to a village near our camp and a kind lady looked at the web cameras situated at the Crater Lake rim. It was just the same as yesterday. Bugger!! We bit the bullet and accepted the fact that we were never going to see this natural wonder. Before leaving the area we walked to a viewpoint where the Rogue River rushes down a steep gorge. In flood, this was spectacular. Reluctantly we drove north around the National Park thru thick snow and on to a State Park at La Pine where we found a site with “electric”. It is pretty cold so “electric” makes life a bit easier. Val did a wash as a watery sun was shining. We did a nice walk along the Deschutes River in a mixture of sun, rain and even a little snow. It was very cold and we were glad of the oil column heater that Nicola and Gary had left behind from their trip

10^th May

We woke to a winter wonderland as it had snowed lightly in the night leaving a dusting on the fir trees. We drove out of the mountains and onto a plateau thru the large city of Bend. As the forecast is still for cold today we headed to another State Park with “electric” but it was full. We continued on a short way to Redmond where we are in another County Fairground. Eventually a weak sun broke thru and we ventured out for a quick walk. The internet here was supposed to be “down” but we found some and successfully Skyped the girls, Lynne and Mum. There was a horse show on so the Fairground is full of unusual 5^th wheelers, part horse float/ part accommodation. Plenty of Stetsons, boots and jeans around!

11^th May

A beautiful sunny day and we could now see all the mountains surrounding us. We drove west thru great farming land with a mountain range called the Three Sisters in the background. We continued thru the town of Sisters and found a great forest camp at the beautiful Suttle Lake.
 We set off for a walk around the lake (4 miles) and had great views of Mt Washington, which is nowhere near the State of Washington. This mountain is very steep and reminded us of the Matterhorn. There were camps and lodges around most of the shoreline. A very cool wind stopped us from sitting outside when we returned.

12^th May

Still a cold wind off the lake in the morning. We drove a very short trip over the Santiam Pass, stopping to take more photos of Mt Washington and into the Willamette Forest to another stunning little lake where we camped above it with a great view. We were 1200ft lower but the temperature was very warm and there was no wind. We did a short bike ride up the Smith River before walking the length of the lake along part

of the McKenzie Trail. This trail goes for about 26 miles and a few were biking or hiking its length. The forest in this area was quite different from the higher altitudes. The spring growth is on the deciduous trees (oaks and aspens) and the contrast of this light green with the very dark green of the redwoods was beautiful. It was still warm after the sun set so we gathered some firewood and lit our first camp fire.

                                                      13^th May

We decide to walk the McKenzie Trail in the other direction before returning to our great camp site and lunch. It was another very short trip down the valley to our next campsite in the Willamette Forest. We were right beside the very swiftly following McKenzie River with trees all around us covered in moss. A couple of rafts went passed but I was too slow to photograph them. It was very warm now and we sat outside until it was dark at around 8:30pm.

14^th May

It was a very pleasant 55 mile drive following the McKenzie River to the twin cities of Springfield and Eugene. Before finding our RV Park we did a huge shop at Wal-Mart. We made the most of the internet and Val has done a large wash! When it cooled a bit around 5:00pm, we road along the cycleways following the Willamette River thru the University of Oregan to downtown Eugene. Eugene is a university city a bit like Dunedin in that most of the students come from out of town. Lots of the students were swimming in the Willamette River. (much bigger than the Leith!) We went to a bar and had a beer. They had a promotion on and we won a tee shirt. Back on the bikes and a much more direct route back to “Ernie”. It is a beautiful evening and I am outside writing this blog which we will publish tonight.

Northern California

28^th April

After another laundry and publishing the last blog we followed the Sir Francis Drake Blvd northwest and around a nice harbour, formed by the San Andreas Fault Line, to Point Reyes lighthouse. The last 8 miles were along a very rough narrow road past historic farm houses which reminded us of Southern Ireland. The lighthouse is right on the point and down 300 steps. The views were spectacular. We talked to a ranger who had lived in Kaikoura and where she studied whales. The Grey Whales migrate around this point going north with their cubs at this time of the year. She had seen 7 this morning but unfortunately, despite hanging around for some time, we saw none! Back down the bumpy road to the N-1 again and north to Bogeda Bay and the Sonoma Coast State Park.

29^th April

The weather has really warmed up and we enjoyed the N-1 north passed some stunning coastline and some cute little towns. We stopped at Manchester State Park in an isolated camp. After lunch we followed a trail passed a lake to the beach. This was like a S.I. West Coast beach with white sand and bounding surf. The evening was warm and we had dinner outside watching the sunset.

30^th April

We took advantage of the isolation and both had haircuts before heading north again along this great coast line. More cute coastal towns, Little River, Mendocino and Fort Bragg. Just passed Fort Bragg we stopped at the MacKerricher State Park. This was another great camp and we set off on our bikes along the old forestry tramway back to the town of Fort Bragg. We stopped at various points to enjoy the view and then wandered around the town.

The ice-creams here were great! Before dinner we returned to the beach and walked out to Laguna Point and watched the sun set and seals and their pups on the rocks. I am not a great seal fan, but these were less smelly than their NZ cousins.

 

1^st May

We have been away for a month now. Time is really flying and we are worried that we have not travelled as far as we should have. Never mind it all seems to work out in the end. This was a long drive today firstly along the coast before heading inland on the N-1 and then eventually turning further inland on the 36. We are heading towards Redding and the Lassen Volcanic National Park. We are not sure if it will be open but regardless there is some nice country to see in this area. It will take us a couple of days to get there and we have stopped at Grizzly Creek Redwood State Park for the night.

The ranger said the river was too cold for swimming but when have we let that put us off. It was really warm and we enjoyed a great swim and a sunbathe back at our site. This has been another really warm day (25C)

2^nd May

Overnight we have had a rethink of our route thru Northern California. As well as Lassen Volcanic National Park we also want to go to the Redwood National Park on the coast and only 60 miles north. We retraced our drive on the 36 and passed the town of Eureka and north along the coast passed Humboldt Bay to the Redwood National Park.

After checking out the visitors centre we found a camp site. It was not quite what we imagined as we were in a meadow where elk roam. Before lunch we set off on our bikes thru the coastal redwoods on a spectacular ride. These coastal Redwood trees are the tallest living things in the world! Back to “Ernie” for lunch and off again on foot for what Val described as a 3.5 mile loop track. What she neglected to tell me was that we had to follow a series of tracks thru the forest for 2.5 miles to get to the loop. It ended up as glorious walk of about 8.5 miles and we deserved our drinks when we got back at about 6:30pm. All in all the decision to come to this National Park was a great one!

 

3^rd May

There are three main roads heading north. The N-1 follows closely up the coast line. The 101 parallels the N-1 but is a much more developed route. The I-5 is about 130 mile east of the 101 across the coastal mountains. We drove inland for our longest day yet up the 299 to the city of Redding on the Interstate 5. The road was great following the

Trinity River and winding thru the valleys between the 101 and the I-5. We have had a slight problem with our fresh water pump and I had eventually figured that it was a faulty pump. We drove to Redding where we bought a new pump. The new one was cheap around US$65. It took a bit of installing it however. One of those jobs that never goes the way you think. After a return visit to Camping World for another part we now have the pump working properly. We are camped just out of Redding in a pleasant RV Park.

4^th May

After yesterday’s long day we have decided to take it a bit easy. We drove into town and followed the great Redding cycleways either side of the Sacramento River, this included the lovely Sundial Bridge. We hope someone from Christchurch is taking note of the these great cycleways and bridges across the river. After a shop “Ernie” got a well deserved wash later in the day. It has just started to rain but the temperatures are still very warm. Our hope tomorrow is to venture as far as we can into the Lassen Volcanic National Park which in theory is mostly still closed due to the snow. As we have good internet at this camp we will post this blog tonight.