Margaret River Area, WA

Sun 14 Oct – We left Emu Point and Albany and drove west along the South Western Highway following the coast on a windy road. At Walpole we stopped for lunch overlooking the inlet with the skies very dark but no rain. We left the coast and turned off to the Mt Frankland National Park where we stopped at the Fernhook Falls camping area. The camp was nearly full and we got the last site. There was a short walk down to a large tea coloured pool and along the riverbank to a series of small waterfalls. They would be much more spectacular with more water going over them. We took pity on a couple of ladies that arrived late and shared our large site with them.

Mon 15 Oct – Breakfast outside before heading on thru the Great Southern Forest. These are huge very straight Karri trees, a type of gum. Apart from the trees the country reminds us of the West Coast of NZ, especially with the tea coloured streams, ferns and lush bush. Just after the timber town of Pemberton we entered the Beedelup National Park and stopped at the oddly named Snottygobble camp. There was no one there and no one came in! Might it be the name? There was a nice walk thru the bush to Goblin Swamp with dark water and strange knotted trees. It had been cool all day so back at our camp we lit a camp fire and sat outside for a couple of hours.

Tues 16 Oct – Just a short drive S.W. to the coast at Augusta, a pretty fishing/tourist town on the most S.W. part of Aussie. The camp was great and we got a lovely site overlooking the Blackwood River at its mouth. This is the start of the area known as Margaret River. There was a nice walkway along the river back into the town where we got some useful information about this area. It was a lovely suny afternoon and we sat and read watching the ibis and pelicans on the river. We will stay here tomorrow and hopefully ride our bikes to the lighthouse.

Wed 17 Oct – A beautiful morning as we set off on the bikes for a 9km ride to the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. This is where the  Southern Ocean meets the Indian Ocean. The lighthouse, built in 1895, is the tallest in Australia. We climbed the 175 steps to the top for great views. Back at “Andy” we relaxed in the lovely sunshine, had haircuts and walked around the bay for fish (bronze whaler shark) and chips at sunset. Delicious!

Thurs 18 Oct -  It started to rain in the night and the day was wet and cold. We shopped at Augusta before we drove to the Jewel Caves. The tour was great as we had two tour guides and only Val and I on the tour. We have visited many caves in lots of countries but these would have to be one of the best we have seen. The rain continued as we drove along the coast and camped in the Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park. We were in a forest of karri gums with wild white lilies all around us.

Fri 19 Oct – There is a 4 day mountain bike event happening between Cape Leeuwin and Cape Naturaliste called the Cape to Cape. Today as we left our camp the riders were using a track near the access road so we stopped and watched them come thru. Another short drive to another camp in this National Park at Conto. The day was cool but when the sun came out it warmed up. In the afternoon we walked to the cliff tops near the camp.

Sat 20 Oct – Cool and windy this morning as we drove to the beach at Prevelly. Even the best beach does not look great in this weather. On to the town of Margaret River and we had trouble getting a camp site as the Cape to Cape race was overnighting here. We got the last site in town. We walked into the town which is very touristy, and along a track beside the Margaret River.

Sun 21 Oct – We drove along the coast to Yallingup, a beachside town. This was wine country with many vineyards. The grapes seemed to be growing in very lush ground unlike the arid conditions of NZ vineyards. There is a lot of limestone around which may suit the grapes. The wind was cold and the surf was pounding in. We did a 6.5km walk up the hills around the town returning via the coastal track with great views. 

Mon 22 Oct – We drove across the last bit of this coastline at Cape Naturaliste to the much more sheltered NW beaches at Dunsborough and followed along this coastline thru Busselton and on to Bunbury. We have had a worn bush on a suspension damper for a while and have an appointment to get it investigated. The guy who had arranged the appointment had filled us with fear as he thought the part would be hard to find and difficult to fit. Fortunately the owner (Eddy) took one look at it and said it would be “too easy”, just get a cup of coffee and come back in an hour. On our return “Andy” was all fixed ($121) and ready to go. We checked into a camp in Bunbury and walked along the waterfront passed the restaurants and bars, up Marlston Hill and its observation tower and into the shopping area. Bunbury is  lovely city (pop 31,000) set on a bay with sheltered beaches and inland waterways.  Although the weather for our Margaret River part of our trip has not been the greatest, we have really enjoyed it and can see that it must be a beautiful holiday destination in the summer. The WA wild flowers have been a real bonus.

Esperance to Albany

Tues 2 Oct – We left our camp in Esperance and parked in the town and went for a walk thru the shopping area. Another grey day and it started to rain as we got back to “Andy”. We drove east along the coast for 50kms to the Cape Le Grand National Park. There are two camping areas in the park and we drove to Cape Le Grand Beach and a site with a view of the beach. It was cold and raining off and on and we picked a gap in the showers and walked along a huge sandy beach. The sand was very white and the water a brilliant turquoise colour. Unusual as the sky was grey. The coast of the N.P. is granite with smooth boulders going into the sea. Very strange!

Wed 3 Oct – A very short drive over a hill to the next camp at Lucky Bay. Another great site with sea views. We went for a 5km walk before lunch as it was not raining. The track followed the granite cliffs with great views down into the beaches. Val took many photos of the spring flowers. We walked to Thistle Cove the next large beach along the coast. This track is part of a 17km walk along the coast of the N.P. In the afternoon we went for a brisk walk along Lucky Bay. Again the unusual sea colour and hard white sand. The wind was freezing and were glad to return to “Andy” and a relax. A kangaroo and her joey are in the garden opposite our campsite.

Thurs 4 Oct – We left the Cape Le Grand National Park and drove back to Esperance. First off, we went to an RV repair place and the guy fixed the pump leak which had developed and supplied a new water filler cap (lost the last one, bugger). Then we went to the service centre where we had jacked up for an oil change and filter. We were on the road out of Esperance and driving west by lunch time. All good. It started to rain heavily and we stopped for the night at the Munglinup rest area. It rained most of the night.

Fri 5 Oct – The rain cleared as we drove west and then turned down to the coast to Hopetoun. The town was small with only a pub, café and an IGA. There was a nice rest area backing onto the beach where we parked. We walked the town, took about 20 minutes and then along the beach into a cool wind. More rain and drizzle in the evening.

Sat 6 Oct – On the way into Hopetoun we spied a huge car-wash, so we went back there and gave “Andy” a thorough shampoo and rinse. He is really looking good with all the attention he has had lately. We have decided to go on a loop thru the Central South region (inland and north) to see the wild flowers. We have seen some already and they are very nice. We stopped in the tiny town of Varley. Not even a pub! This is farming country, mostly grains and wheat. The rain had cleared and we enjoyed sitting in the sun in mild temperatures.

Sun 7 Oct – We drove north to Wave Rock. This is another huge granite outcrop. This one has been eroded and had formed a large wave along one side. We climbed the rock for some great views of surrounding countryside. The road has all sorts of wild flowers growing along the edges. Our stop was at Kulin, in a great free camp.

Mon 8 Oct – We drove the “Tin Horse Highway”. This is a 15km stretch of road where the locals have made horse sculptures out of old drums at their gateways. The famous local race meeting was on Saturday and these sculptures line the route to the racecourse. We are now in the “Wheat Belt”. The country is undulating with huge fields of wheat still ripening. The fields have large gum trees along the roadsides and some trees have been left in the fields. Very picturesque! Our overnight stop was at Narrogin in a camp. This is a larger town and we will shop there tomorrow. Val did a huge laundry and I gave “Andy” an inside clean-up.

Tues 9 Oct – A lovely warm sunny morning and after shopping we headed south down the Albany Highway to Cranbrook where we arrived at the farm of David and Lorraine Preston. Val met Lorraine 50 years ago and we have stayed in touch ever since. They have been and visited us in Kaiapoi so it was good to catch up with them again. The Preston family (sons Mark and Neil plus families) own three farms along a country road. After a catch-up we were straight into the farming life moving a mob of sheep 5kms from one farm to another. The farms run sheep (meat) and grow canola and wheat. The sons plus two drivers were preparing to drive two huge machines (swathers), which are used in the harvesting of canola, 400 odd kms north to the Geraldton area where they will work for 4 weeks non-stop. The circus is a pilot car, the two huge swather machines on trucks towing the combs and two caravans for accommodation. We had a great roast meal and sat around the table and chatted.

Wed 10 Oct – David took us for a tour around the farm in the 4WD ute. It is beautiful country with great views of the Stirling Ranges in the distance. David is breaking in more paddocks out the back of the farm for grazing. He is using a gigantic machine which lifts the rocks out of the ground and crushes them leaving gravel which the grass grows thru. All the sons plus the drivers and the children arrived for lunch. David arrived back from Albany (100kms) with one of the trucks which had to be certified for the trip north and then took us to a bush area where there were wild flowers including some rare spider orchids. Lorraine was on grandchild minding as Dallas, Neil's wife, was getting more stuff from Albany for the road trip. Another great chat after dinner.

Thurs 11 Oct – Photos and farewells. Thanks to David and Lorraine for their generous hospitality. Back on the road again to the Stirling National Park.  This is a range of unusually shaped mountains (the highest mountains in this part of Western Australia). The camp was beautiful, and we sat and enjoyed a peaceful read in the sun.

Fri 12 Oct – It rained in the night and we drove to the Porongurup National Park and did great 2.5km climb up to an area of granite boulders called the Granite Skywalk. At the top there was a walkway attached to the giant boulders giving views over the valleys. The last climb to the walkway was quite a scramble. The wild flowering shrubs in the bush were great. It was only a short drive into Albany where we booked into a camp for a couple of days. A chilly wind and showers set in in the afternoon.

Sat 13 Oct – A nice sunny morning so we hopped on the bikes and rode an 11km cycleway along the beaches and around into the harbour and the CBD of Albany. We got caught in a heavy shower just before we arrived but dried out walking the main street of the city. Albany (pop 33,000) is quite like Timaru, hilly and with a main street running down to the harbour. A very pretty town! We had a rare cup of coffee and a muffin in the oldest pub in W.A. before we walked across a walkway (over railway track) to the beautifully designed Entertainment Centre looking a bit like a ship. Back on the bikes for the return 11km ride. Unfortunately, the skies opened again, and we got very wet. After lunch we rode around Emu Point at the entrance to Oyster harbour where we are camped.

The Nullarbor & the Goldfields

Sat 22 Sept – We had an early start as the wind is less in the morning. We checked tyre pressures and topped up with fuel and started our trip across the Nullabor Plains, 1200kms to the next small town. The first 60kms was thru farmland but this turned into the outback. The road was great and we had no wind, driving thru gum trees and low scrub. After about 220kms we stopped early at a rest area with tracks out the back and found a nice spot shaded by gum trees. The wind got up but it was warm.

Sun 23 Sept – We drove 50kms and then headed off the main road and down to the coast at the “Head of the Bight”. This area is famous as the Right Whales give birth along these cliffs. We paid our entry fee ($12 - Aboriginal land) and walked along the cliff tops with boardwalks near the edges. Right below us was a mother (cow) and her baby (calf). What a site!! They seemed to be just relaxing in the gentle surf. Out in the distance we could see many other whales breaching and spouting? Back on the road and another stop at a view point high up on the cliffs. The road basically follows the ocean. We stopped at another rest area and spent some time cooking our remaining vegies as the border. S.A./W.A. is only 80kms away and they are very strict policing the fresh fruit and vege restrictions.

Mon 24 Sept – We had a tail wind for most of our trip. Great for fuel consumption. We stopped at another lookout with more views of the Great Australian Bight. At the S.A./W.A. border village (just a roadhouse) we fuelled up, dumped and lined up for fruit and veg inspection. We had crossed many country’s borders in campervans but this inspection was the most thorough. Every cupboard opened!! We drove on to another rest area and spent a very hot afternoon, 35C, however it’s the flies that are most annoying.

Tues 25 Sept – We have decided to get some miles under our belt. We have crossed the time zone so the day would be 1 ½hours longer, so will drive 300kms today. The drive is fascinating. The country changes from gum trees, to low scrub, to desert. Also the wild life. Today we dodged a large snake, ran over a goanna and a stumpy tailed lizard and just missed a kangaroo. We have many interesting people coming the other way. Vintage cars, a hay ride (a group of road trains with donated hay going to NSW farms, cyclists (mad) and even a walker (even madder). There are also a lot of cars, West Coast Eagles fans with flags and scarves flying, (go the Eagles) heading from Perth to Melbourne for the AFL grand final this weekend. It is a road trip of 3,418kms. They must be keen! We stopped at Caiguna Roadhouse for lunch and walked down to one of the holes on the Nullabor Links Golf Course. These are 18 golf holes spread across the 1,200kms of the plain. Back on the road and the longest straight section of road in Aussie (146kms). We stopped for the night at another rest area on this straight.

Wed 26 Sept – We drove the last 275kms to Norseman, the first town and officially the end of the Nullabor. We filled with water, our first since Ceduna and shopped before camping on a free grassy area for RVs. It was nice to be out of the red dust.

Thurs 27 Sept – Eventually we will head south but first we have decided to go north up to Kalgoorlie and the Goldfields area. As we neared Kalgoorlie we passed many entrances to gold mines. At the “SuperPit”, KCGM’s huge open cast gold mine at the edge of Kalgoorlie, we stopped and were amazed at this collossal pit with the roads winding down to the working area far below. If you have been to Waihi and seen the Martha Pit and been amazed, this bit would be 10X bigger!!

 We camped at another free RV reserve next to a nice park and rode our bikes along a cycleway to the main street. In the 1900s this was a very rich town (and still is) reflected by the ornate old buildings in CBD.

Fri 28 Sept – On our way out of Kalgoorlie we visited a tourist mine and walked around the various exhibits including a dump truck, pit heads of old mines, steam driven winching motors and watched gold being smelted into an ingot. We even panned for gold with surprisingly no luck! An interesting tour. 

We drove 40kms to the even older town of Coolgardie. Another free camp and a walk into the small town and the museum. This was the original centre for the gold in this area until the gold rush to Kalgoorlie. The museum was very good and there was a model of the old town before its demise.

Sat 29 Sept – We headed west with the windscreen wipers working. This the first real rain this trip!! It did not last long, and we arrived at Boondi Rock in the Goldfields National Park. The park was not what we expected. Thought it would be gold related but it was all about the Boondi Rock. This is a huge granite outcrop covering many square kms and with a dome shape. The steam trains used to run from Kalgoorlie to Perth and needed water frequently. There was a series of watering points established along the track, one being Boondi Rock. The water was collected off the rock and channelled by a series of walls into a dam. A very ingenious system. We walked around the rock and the dam before the flies drove us inside. It was also cold and threatening rain. We listened to the ABC radio and heard the West Coast Eagles close win in the AFL final, a bit hard to follow when you do not know the players.

Sun 30 Sept – We retraced our route east and south back thru Coolgardie to Norseman 257kms. We have enjoyed our small detour thru Kalgoorlie, Coolgardie and the goldfields. We walked around Norseman and just got back before more rain set in.

Mon 1 Oct – It rain in the night and drizzled all day as we drove south for 200kms to the coastal town of Esperance. We booked “Andy” in for a well-earned oil change and filter for next Thursday morning, shopped and booked into a camp for laundry. It is quite cold and there is the odd shower. Between showers we went for a quick walk along the waterfront and the marina. It must be a pretty town and beach on a nice day.