Sun 19 May – We are at Geraldton, 430kms north of Perth. It
was election day yesterday and in a surprise the ALP (Labour Party) lost to the
Coalition (Liberal and National). We drove north to Seven Mile Beach where we
camped right on the beach. We climbed up to a lookout and read in the shade of
the awning and our new sunshade. A nice warm evening watching the sunset.
Mon 20 May – It was much hotter in the night and we drove
north turning off the highway at Northhampton and on towards Port Gregory. This
is the wheat belt and there were miles and miles of wheat stubble which must
look great before the harvest. We stopped at Lynton Station, a farm stay.
This
was the site of a Convict Hire Depot. Station Managers came here and hired the
convicts to work the land. We explored the managers partially resorted home
overlooking the farm, climbed a ridge to a monument to a landowner, (on a
motorbike) and walked around the ruins of the depot. Just as we got back to
“Andy” the promised southerly struck with winds and rain.
Tues 21 May – We took a side road down to the Pink Lake. Not
very pink however! Back on the road and into the Kalbarri National Park where
we stopped at one of the lookouts with red cliffs and walked down to a
beautiful little cove. The town of Kalbarri is at the mouth of the Murchison
River and is a holiday resort with many apartments and camping grounds. We
stopped at a camp over the road from the beach and were given a great site
looking out onto the river estuary. We walked around the town and the
waterfront and ended the day having drinks with most of the camp watching the
sunset.
Wed 22 May – Another beautiful day as we biked north passed
the marina and then around the very small town. In the afternoon we biked south
along a cycleway to the Blue Holes. This would be a great swimming area but the
tide was too high. Back at the camp we changed into our togs and went down to the
beach but the wind had got up and we chickened out! Walked to the IGA for a
quick shop and after the evening sunset drinks with the campers, we went to the
local pub for a pizza.
Thurs 23 May – Watched the pelicans being fed before heading
off into the Kalbarri National Park to the Natural Window and took the popular
photos. A drive to another part of the park where we packed our lunch and
followed a 3km trail down a gorge to the Murchison River gorge. Beautiful
scenery with the red cliffs, white sand and lush green gum trees. It was a long
slog back up the gorge in 30+C. Back on the road out of the park and on to
Highway 1 (95kms) with the aircon on!! We camped on the banks of the Murchison
River, a nice free spot.
Sat 25 May – We have been deciding whether to go into Denham
and Monkey Mia. It is about 155km out to the west and forms the seaward side of
Shark Bay. We decided that, as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, we would do
the trip, so headed west to Denham and stayed in a camping ground. We will stay
two nights here and drive out to Monkey Mia tomorrow. There was a strong
southerly wind which kept the temperatures down. We walked the small town and
went to an audio/visual presentation of the sinking of the HMAS Sydney by a
German ship during the WW11. This all happened just off the coast here. Both ships sank with huge casualties. We went
for a short cycle to a lagoon but could not find how to get down to it.
Sun 26 May – A cloudy morning. We drove 28kms over the
peninsula to Monkey Mia. This is basically a resort where they attract dolphins
to the beach by feeding them. We arrived just in time for the last feeding of
the day at 9:15am. It all seems a bit weird, as this is marine reserve and
feeding dolphins, so tourist can photograph them just doesn’t seem right. They
only feed out 8 fish to 4 dolphins. It cost us $15 each and was all over in
about 5 minutes. We did a 2km short walk inland and then along the beach. The
flies were very annoying. With the sun out and no flies the resort would have
been ok. Back in “Andy” we decided to head back to the lagoon we tried to cycle
to but again the flies were bad, so we drove back to our camp where the cool
wind meant there were no flies and we could enjoy the view and read.
Mon 27 May – We headed back to the main highway with the odd
shower of rain. On the way we stopped at Shell Beach. This beach consists of
tiny shells. Years ago, they cut the hard-packed shells into building blocks.
Another stop was at Hamelin Pool. This is at the inland end of Shark Bay where
the extremely shallow, salty hot water is an environment for stromatolites to
grow. A stromatolite is a living fossil, and these are reputed to be the oldest
living things on earth. (They told us the same think about the bristle cone
pine trees at Mt Wheeler – Utah!!!) There was a board walk over the stromatolites,
so you can get a good view. Not very spectacular however. We stopped for the night
at the Wooramel Roadhouse.
We followed a trail
along the beach to where they had quarried the shell building blocks. Lunch
inside (showers and flies) before heading back to the highway and our trip
north. The diversion to Denham and Monkey Mia was 312kms. Some people say it is
not worth it and we would probably agree! Still sometimes you just have to see
for yourself.
Tues 28 May – We drove 125kms north to the largish town of
Carnarvon. We had a big shop-up at Woolworths and the BWS (Beer Wine Spirits)
and then camped at a tourist park near the centre of town. On our bikes to
explore the town and the waterfront. Carnarvon is at the mouth of the Gascoigne
River. The waterfront was very nice with palm trees and grass. We biked across
an old railway bridge and to the “Mile Long Wharf” used to service this area in
the past. Back at the camp we had a swim in the camp pool. First swim this
trip! In the evening we were joined by the campers next door for good chat.
They were from Kalbarri and were on their way home.
Wed 29 May – We checked out and drove to the waterfront and
sat in the shade of the palm trees enjoying the view. Walked into the town and
found a Jaycars and bought an Indoor/outdoor thermometer. This town’s claim to
fame is that it had two huge radio receivers. One was used for the Apollo moon
missions. It was the first and last receive point before the capsules left the
earth’s atmosphere and after re-entry. It was also the first receive point for
Australia’s Overseas TV pictures. We planned to visit the museum but there was
a power cut in Carnarvon so no go!
We drove north after lunch to a rest area
beside the Minilya River (dry) with nice shade from the gum trees. There were
about 20 caravans there. The flies were bad, and we sat outside with our head
nets. The flies are worse this year because the winds are from the east blowing
the flies out of the bush to the coast. It was also very hot around 33C and
still hot when we went to bed.
Thurs 30 May – We were last to leave at 9:30 as we only had
a short drive N/W to Coral Bay. We had booked a camp there a few weeks ago. We
got a nice shady site and walked to the beach. The water was a great
temperature 26C. Perfect!! as there is good snorkelling here. The town is
basically two tourist camps, booking offices, a few shops, bars and restaurants.
Another place a bit like Kaiteriteri. After lunch we sorted out our snorkelling
gear bought over from home and walked to the beach. The snorkelling is just off
the beach. Bad start, Val’s flippers split as she put them on. Old age! (the
flippers, not Val) The snorkelling was great with huge coral formations and
plenty of fish. There are no flies here thank goodness, so we sat in the shade
of our awning and even cooked dinner outside. First time this trip.
Fri 31 May – A cooler cloudy day. We walked around this
small resort in the morning and went down to the beach in the afternoon when
the sun came out. Snorkelled off the main beach. Not as spectacular as
yesterday’s, but still pretty good. I am having trouble with my beard letting
water in and discovered I am better with just swimming goggles and my snorkel.
Sat 1 June – Mucked around in the morning and down to the
beach in the afternoon. We walked along the beach to the better snorkelling
area and spent the afternoon drifting over the great coral and fish. All
snorkelling gear working perfectly. What a great beach resort! We bought a
takeaway delicious pizza for dinner. We will publish this blog from Coral Bay
tonight.
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