Mt Gambier to Geelong - The Great Ocean Road

 Mon 21 Nov – Really strong winds in the night at Mt Gambier caused our neighbours to move out at around 1:15am. Worried about the tree they were under, we supposed. We shopped before driving up Mt Gambier which is an extinct volcano with a beautiful blue lake in its crater. This also is the water supply for the city.

A very short drive, in strong winds, to the coastal village of Nelson and a camp overlooking the Glenelg river, crossing the S.A./Victoria border. The winds were still strong with heavy showers. A group of school kids set up some ground sheets and flies for the night and must have got wet and cold. They made it thru the night however!

Tues 22 Nov – It is still windy but the showers are fewer. We drove to Portland, thru many pine forests, and camped in a free area. In the afternoon we were heading for a walk when we came across a vintage tourist tram. We bought tickets and were the only passengers as we followed the tracks past the port and harbour and up to a lookout, with a lady giving us an interesting commentary.

Portland is a large port exporting wood chips to China and logs to India, and bringing in Bauxite to a nearby aluminium smelter. A real port town with a feel of Port Chalmers but with tourists.

Wed 23 Nov – Another short drive to the mouth of the Fitzroy River. We found a sheltered spot, the strong winds of the last few days have eased at last. We sat outside for lunch the first time in 5 days! A nice short walk to the mouth of the river before enjoying a read in the sunshine. This bit of coast is called the Ship Wreck Coast and it is easy to see why with huge surf breaking onto beaches and cliffs.

Thurs 24 Nov - We walked to the river again before another shower. Back on the highway heading S.E. stopping at “The Grags”, a rugged bit of coastline and our first taste of the scenery to come. We had a quick shop at Warrnambool, a city of 35,000 where we stayed in a caravan park. Lunch outside before we walked along a beach walkway and back via the Pertrobe Lakes to our camp. All very nice. Sat in the sun and read until 5:00pm.

Fri 25 Nov – 25kms down the road we joined the famous Great Ocean Road with its many view points. Our first stop was at the “Bay of Islands” which was a bit of a wow! Then onto the “Bay of Martyrs” and then the “Grotto” with a steep descent down to it. Very spectacular! Our last stop was at “London Bridge”, what a coastline!

As we have plenty of time, we camped at a reserve at Port Campbell with great views over bush and farmlands. The sun came out and the temperatures rose as we walked via a scenic view point into the lovely village of Port Campbell for an ice-cream sitting at the little beach. A beautiful day sitting outside in the sun for drinks.

Sat 26 Nov – Our next camp is only 12kms away as we have allowed plenty of time to explore this next bit of coastline. The cliffs are limestone and the wave action has formed many spectacular features. Our first stop was at “Lord Ard Gorge” where the sailing ship the Lord Ard was wrecked. There was a large parking area with many paths leading down to great lookouts with names like Razorback, Gorge, Thunder Cave, and Mutton Bird Island. At the Gorge we climbed down steps to a secluded beach. Most tourist seemed to be like us and stopping off at various point. No bus tours or large groups.

 After 1 ½ hours we left this area and drove on to the famous “Twelve Apostles”. A whole new world here, with a huge visitor’s centre, buses, tour groups and helicopter rides. A very short walk to the large viewing platform with a great view of these limestone pinnacles in the ocean. Selfy sticks everywhere!

We felt some of the formations 6kms up the road were better but it seems most people only come to The Twelve Apostles and then head back. Another short drive to “Gibsons Steps”, a steep descent down the beach with a different view of one of the “Apostles”.

 Our camp was at the Princetown Recreation Reserve where we parked around the oval. As we parked up a local cricket match started. You would swear it was Australia, in green and gold, verses New Zealand, in black. It was in fact Camperdown (Aussie) v Princetown (NZ) Quite entertaining. There had been a warm wind blowing all day but just as the cricket finished the wind change and it rained. A large group of kangaroos also invaded the pitch.

Sun 27 Nov – Pancakes for breakfast!! We left camp late and drove to a park where we followed a boardwalk across a wetland and the Gellibrand River and climbed up into the tiny town of Princetown.

 Back on the Great Ocean Road thru some hills and out onto Cape Otway where we drove to the end and the famous Cape Otway Lighthouse. We paid our admission fee and enjoyed walking around the various buildings associated with the lighthouse including a Telegraph Station, School House and WW2 Bunker. This lighthouse is at the western side of Bass Strait and the second most southerly point of mainland Australia. We climbed to the top coming out to great views and a cold southerly wind. Lunch in the car-park before a very short drive to our camp in the Otway National Park. It was a private camp with a jumble of huts and old caravans all a bit alternative but at least we have power.

Mon 28 Nov – Drove back to the Great Ocean Road and on to Apollo Bay, stopping for a short but lovely walk along a track in the rain forest. Quite different to most Aussie rain forest, much more like a fiordland walk with ferns, pungas and moss. Spent some time outside but more showers sent us in. In a break in the weather we took a short walk along the beach.

Tues 29 Nov – The road today was like the Kaikoura coastal road with cliffs on one side and rocks and beaches on the other. We chose to stay for two nights at Wye River at a great camp right on the beach. It was a beautiful small beach with the Wye River at the centre. We walked along the beach wading thru the river and back passed the one shop/cafe. We read in the sun with many birds around us, cockatoos, king parrots and unusual ducks.

Wed 30 Nov – Great not to be driving today. A cool morning with a bit of sea fog and drizzle. After lunch the sun came out and we walked over the river and up a road passed the pub and onto the flash holiday homes with great views of the beach. Back down and we followed a track up the Wye River. We took our pre dinner drinks down to the beach and watched some surfers and the life savers practising with their IRB in the waves.

Thurs 1 Dec – More of the Great Ocean Road in cloudy weather, stopping at Lorne, another tourist town, before stopping at Torquay at a camp for the night. Torquay is a larger town with the usual great beach. This is officially the end of the of the Great Ocean Road. We walked down to the town from the camp and were surprised to find a huge set-up at the beach. It was the World Beach Volley Ball Pro Tour with three courts with grandstands, lighting and TV coverage. We watched the end of a ladies game and then a men’s match, Switzerland v USA. An exciting game with Switzerland winning in two sets. The sun had come out and we walked up thru the usual tourist town shops back to our camp.

Fri 2 Dec – A beautiful sunny morning with breakfast outside. The first time in quite a while. The November weather in Melbourne has been the coldest and wettest since 1975!! A very short drive to the outskirts of Geelong where we shopped before checking into the Geelong Show Grounds for a couple of days. Show ground camps are great, cheap, huge sites and we are not paying for stuff we do not use. The weather is still great and the forecast for the weekend is hot. We biked around our area, and discovered an easy bike ride into the city which we will do tomorrow. Geelong has a pop of 300,000 about the same size as Christchurch.

Sat 3 Dec – The top temp today is forecast to be 30C. We hopped on our bikes in the morning and rode thru the suburbs and along the beautiful beaches, piers, and foreshore of Geelong. We parked near the city centre and walked the Cunningham pier and into the CBD. Lunch on the foreshore before getting back on our bikes, passing the beaches, and swimming areas now with many people cooling off. There are 40 figures looking like full sized clothes peg characters. What a great ride! Sometimes we do not use the bikes for many days and then we have a day like today! Back at the show grounds we sat in the shade reading and watching horsey pony club things happening in the show ring.